First things first. Let’s take a moment to appreciate the brilliance of Alexander Wang. The designer has grown from strenght to strenght and proved to be a skilled showman. Wang’s show and Altuzarra‘s pushed the usage of pattern making and material within the framework of a garment. Laser-cut fabrics were juxtaposed with heavy faux fur collars. Boxy jackets took precedence over the previous season’s lighter sweatshirt styles. At Altuzarra, fabrics were spliced and quilted to an abstract effect. All in all, both shows were futuristic, sleek and well edited.
Tailored trousers, both wide-legged palazzos and fitted drainpipes, were seen at many shows. At Jonathon Simkhai, flared pants were teamed with neatly constructed, sporty crop bodices. At Lela Rose, the tailored head-to-toe look was embellished and ornate. The look was staid at Giulietta, and trousers were teamed with soft sweaters at Rebecca Taylor.
Back In Black
We saw many reinventions of the classic LBD on the runway at DKNY, Monique Lhuiller, Jonathon Simkhai and Yigal Azrouel. Leather, fringes, mesh and asymmetric panels added a fresh twist to this eternal classic.
Pastel pink emerged as a micro trend for Fall 2014, with the soft powder hue mixed with muted greys and printed chiffons seen at Adeam, Delpozo and Kaelen.
Pure snow whites washed over the runways in soft fur and mohair, lustrous leather, crisp organza and pliant satin. We loved the belted dresses at Victoria Beckham and the voluminous versions at Edun and Kaelen.
Delicate lace dominated the catwalks. Studded with stones or embellished with delicate flowers, floaty fabrics in the palest of pastels were seen at Delpozo and Porsche Design.
Mara Hoffman was inspired by exotic lands near and far. Bright printed dresses and embellished gowns added a touch of drama to the runway.
Bright indigo, chartreuse, coral and tourmaline shone bright on Day 4 of NYFW. The pops of colour at Thakoon, Tibi, Wang and Lela Rose were a welcome change from the usual staid winter greys and blacks.
The ubiquitous sweatshirt is still around and trending! Hooray for those of us who love to be stylish and comfortable all at the same time. The kitschy take on printed and sheer sweatshirts at Ostwald Helgason and Calla were fun and cheeky. We saw some grown up slouchy versions too at Yigal Azrouel and Edun.
The New Look
Cristian Siriano paid homage to his namesake and introduced the 50s showstopper back on the runway. Inspired by Lisa Fonssagrives, his collection saw cinched waists and feminine tailoring. Full skirts were also seen at Monique Lhuiller, Delpozo and Lela Rose.
Mustard & Tan
Leather is a fall staple, and warm mustard and tan add sunshine to even the greyest day. We spotted a chic coat at Derek Lam, and midi dresses at Altuzarra and Porsche Designs.
Wintry landscapes and fall’s faded blooms were seen at Jenni Kayne, Ostwald Helgason, Thakoon and Tracy Reese. Autumn’s dark florals seem to be edging towards a more delicate approach next season.
Stay tuned for more detailed updates from Fashion Week on Stylista Insider!