Every season, after the innovative edge of New York Fashion Week and the creative carousel of London Fashion Week, comes Milan Fashion Week, that’s always steeped in history and tradition. The cuts get classic, the fabrics richer, the embellishments reflect the decades of archives most Italian fashion houses boast of. We’ve compiled a list of our favourite shows from Day 1 of MFWeek A/W 2014 below:
The house of Ferretti referenced deep, dark woods for fall. Moss greens and faded mustards were offset by delicate nudes and vintage burgundy. Much like in nature, the textures had an tactile play of contrast. Glazed brocades were juxtaposed with plush furs, while barely there lace was embellished with jagged paillettes. Broody and becoming, this collection set the tone for the collections to follow for fall.
One of the newer kids on the block, Fausto Puglisi’s designs are punchy and bold. With plenty of colour-blocked statement pieces, his collection was inspired by various artists, the Ballets Russes and the Statue of Liberty. We loved the vivid colours and balance of bold graphics on easy silhouettes.
Frida Giannini deviated from her usual slinky, nocturnal numbers to a more punctuated, sartorially slick collection for “the regular woman”. Power pastels took the runway by storm; classic Italian poudre, cognac, tan and greens were seen in buttery leathers and subtle georgette frills. The pastels didn’t venture into sugary realms thanks to the 60s sharpness seen in the A-line skirts and androgynous bomber jackets. Shine creeped in by way of crystal-studded bodices and short flared leather dresses for the night. I have to say I’m a fan of the designer’s eye for detail and meticulous uniformity in design.
Astute simplicity and clean presentation made Maria Grachvogel’s designs stand out. Felt coats, digital prints and light embroidered lace flowers were juxtaposed with minimal shift dresses, satin gowns and blousons.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua proved that comfort and high shine glamour can be balanced within one look. Dense furs and cashmere were worn nonchalantly over fully sequinned dresses. Holographic shimmer in intense blues and silver were central to this collection, but the designer played it down with touches of dark moss and oxblood tones. The holograph sequins seemed a bit last season to me (read: Gucci), but the collection cohesively was quite stunning.
Young at heart and inspired by rock and roll was Donatella Versace’s latest collection for her Versus line. A little bit of everything made up this collection: vivid young prints, 80s moto jackets, silk tunics referencing the brand’s heritage and a few classic staples from across the board.
Stay tuned for more style updates straight from the runway only on Stylista Insider. Until then, ciao bellas!